1/14/2010

THAILAND!!!!

In Korea, Christmas is not a huge holiday and people don't get much time off work for it. This came as quite a shock to my teaching mentality of having at least two weeks off at Christmas time. My students actually had to attend school on Christmas Eve! It was only a half-day, but still! Well, I only got a week off, which was absolutely not enough to go home for Christmas. What is one to do when they are without family for the holidays? They travel! I was lucky enough to travel to Thailand with my wonderful friend, Tamra. We spent four days on the island of Phuket (pronounced poo-ket), and four-ish days in Bangkok. Here's a photo log of the amazing journey.
My computer is having formatting issues, so I apologize if the pictures seem to be in a strange order. Also, this is only a fraction of the pics. If you want to see the rest, you can check my Facebook account.
This yummy goodness is nothing but ice and watermelon. It costs about a dollar, and I drank my fair share of them.

This is Karon Beach, and in the distance, in the trees, is Karon Cliff, a hidden oasis of quaint bungalows far enough away from downtown to be relaxing, but close enough to walk there for dinner or a Magnum bar.

Sunset on the beach.

At the hotel, this is where we sat every morning for breakfast. Seriously, it was like a dream.

Though Thai food is at the top of my list of cuisine that I like, the culinary highlight of the trip was at our hotel. Every Sunday night, they have an open-grill buffett. Ribs, chicken, fish, hamburgers, potatoes, garlic bread, Thai dishes, and salad for about nine dollars.

The first adventure was elephant trekking through the jungle. Our elephant was Sadah. She was four years old. It was a great time. Something I never thought I'd do. It was followed by a visit to the Big Buddha at the top of the mountain. Visiting those types of monuments always makes me a little sad.

































I have family friends who loved to get things tailor-made in Thailand because it's so cheap. Well, I can't really buy clothes in Korea and I didn't have a cute coat to wear with dress clothes, so I figured I'd just go for it. It was strange being fitted for a winter coat when it was 95 outside, but I loved the outcome (This is not a final photo. It actually turned out to be about two inches shorter. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a huge difference.)









Thai massages on the beach. One hour for nine dollars. This is the life!















Next adventure. A three island tour (no, not a three-hour tour). First was Maya Bay where the movie "The Beach" was filmed.






























Next: Phi-Phi Island (yes, pronounced with two p's, not two f's, and no one giggled). This inlet is called Monkey Beach for obvious reasons. Each time we disembarked, we had to wade through knee-deep water to get back to the boat. This time, going back, the mixture of rocks and the currents caused me to lose my balance and my camera went into the water for a fraction of a second. It's ruined. This is the last picture I took. But Tamra is a good friend to me, and let me take whatever pics I wanted with her camera.


The third island was Kai (which means egg) where we ate a great lunch and relaxed on the beach for the rest of the day.













Next stop: Bangkok. New Years Eve began with a ride in a water taxi. It was interesting, but a bit of a let down with the smell of diesel and the murky water.












The reason for the water taxi was to visit the royal palace and temple. This was one of my favorite parts of Bangkok. Quite beautiful. This pic is the temple...
















...and this is the palace.













New Years Eve night was spent with some people from Seoul. Tamra met them at orientation a year ago. I thought it was pretty amazing to be with other Seoul people in Bangkok.

















New Years day was spend shopping, shopping, shopping. I'm not a huge fan of shopping, but I LOVE haggling for a good price. It's my drug of choice.

































Magnum Bars = heaven. I found these with Dad and Anneli in Finland, then again in Spain. They aren't sold in the States, and are, in my opinion, much better than a Dove bar. I bought one nearly every day.


Next adventure: The Floating Market. This is literaly a market place on water. We were taken in by boat to buy goods from other people on boats. Amazing. This is also where I saw a kamodo dragon in the water! Holy cow!
















A stop to see the bridge where the Japanese transferred it's POW's from coutries all over Asia and some from the US.














Final adventure: Tiger Temple. Tigers everywhere! Not sure if they were drugged or actually sleeping on their own. I'm hoping the latter. This is reportedly where monks take in abandonded or injured tigers in order to restore them back to their natural habitat. They make a pretty penny while the tigers are there. It was really cool to touch one, though.
































At the airport, not so ready to go back to freezing cold Korea. But the trip ended the way it should...with ice cream. And from Dairy Queen, no less! It was truly an adventure. I'm so thankful for the opportunity to see this amazing country and with such an amazing friend!

12/17/2009

I'm a Journalist!


Recently, I was asked to write an article for my school's semester magazine. Well, I guess it's not so much a magazine as a really thick collection of essay's by students and teachers. But I got to write the English Teacher article, so I felt pretty honored. I thought maybe y'all would like to read it, so here it is.
Oh, and just to clarify, there are two Korean words in my essay. The first is "mi-guk-in" and it means American. The second is "ah-jum-ma" and it means married woman, but the connotation is old, cranky, pushy woman.
And once again, I'll throw in a few random Korea photos.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

It’s All About Who You Know
Korea is a country with a vast and rich history which, in comparison to that of my own country, makes the United States seem like a mere infant in the history of the world. It is a country steeped in tradition while on the cutting edge of technology, design, fashion, and medicine. It is a land littered with the remains of war and broken monuments that stand as a testament to Korea's ability to rise above. A land covered in high-rises, seeking to share in the glory of the mountainous landscape. Korea is a country sitting at the edge of a wall of communism while remaining one of the most peaceful places in the world. This list may stand to reason why a 미국인 like me, who did not previously have any interest in Asia, would so quickly have fallen in love with this country. One may think this is why, but it is not. What makes Korea so great is its people.

I can recall with perfect clarity the first day I spent on my own in Seoul. It was a Sunday afternoon and I was desperately seeking out a place to use the Internet and make a connection with home. Most everything was closed, and I reluctantly entered a fifth coffee shop, expecting the owner to yet again give me the symbol of the “X” to indicate there was none available. After a brief game of charades, the shop-worker figured out what I needed and moved quickly to make sure I was taken care of. He sat me down, connected me to the Internet, and then went to get my drink. He came over periodically to check on me and even brought me a free cookie. I now have a strong friendship with everyone who works there, with some of the frequent customers, and even the owner. But it was that initial encounter which made me first realize that Koreans are not run-of-the-mill people.

It never ceases to amaze me that Koreans seem to be the busiest people in the world, but they always seem to have the time to help someone. And the fact that they would go out of their way to help someone from another country, well, that just amazes me even more. That one connection in that little coffee shop has turned out to be the slow construction of my Korean family. That one act of kindness has provided me with close friends that I call brother and sister, a Korean “fill-in” dad, and many young high school students who look up to me as an older sister.

But the kindness doesn't stop there. Here at Gyeseong, I have met some of the warmest people that I have known in Korean. People who drop everything to help me when I lock myself out of my apartment, people who take the time to get to know me, and my dear friend (one of the smartest people I know), who not only educates me on the history of Korea, but on the history of my own country as well! And let’s not forget the students! Ah, the students! This is my fourth year teaching English, and I have been around students from all different countries, but I have never met any students that impress me more than my 2nd and 5th graders. They are geniuses with incredible senses of humor and imaginations that will take them anywhere they want to go.

Then there are the people that I meet just walking down the street. The ones who catch on to the fact that I look a little lost and they stop to ask if I need help. Not only do they do their best to tell me the directions, but more often than not, they take me by the arm and walk me there themselves, even if it’s in the opposite direction to where they are headed.

Korea is not without its creepy people, like the occasional person standing behind me in the subway line who tries to start a conversation with, “Where are you from? Do you like me?” Or the occasional 아줌마 who pushes me onto or off of the subway and then engages me in a staring contest. But the United States is also not void of its colorful personalities, so I do not, in any way, judge Korea by these strange people. They are few and far between, and the good far outweighs the bad. Rather, I choose to see Korea through the eyes of a kind coffee-shop worker, a hopeful student, a knowledgeable friend and co-worker, or the new friendship that is waiting just around the corner.

10/28/2009

Ah, Korea...Part 3. The finale...maybe.


Someone should give me a job as a people watcher! I think I'm pretty good at it, considering this is my third blog on social observations. But, I also have to thank my great Korean friends who graciously supply answers to my never-ending plethora of questions. And once again, enjoy the random and totally unrelated pictures. Let's begin, shall we?


Age Matters:
This is a society that honors and cares for the elderly. Respect for the elderly is taught and expected.
-As age is a major determining factor in the level of respect you receive, it is not a rude thing to ask a person their age as soon as you meet them so you know where you stand with them.
-Older brothers and sisters have special titles. The same title is used with close friends that are older. But there is no term for the older sibling addressing the younger; they only use the person's name.
-When eating as a group, no one takes a bite until the eldest at the table has started.
-The youngest pours the beverage, beginning with the eldest down to the youngest. Usually no one pours for themselves because you should anticipate the needs of others.
-On the subway and bus, young people immediately give up their seats for the elderly.
-This being said, I have met some great old people, but man, most of them are cranky! But really, given the history of the country, they've been through a lot!
-Young people have fantastic posture. Some old people are hunched over like the letter r.


Language
-The spoken language is extremely difficult for me to understand. There are pronunciations that I am just plain not used to hearing. There are silent letters at the end of syllables. OK, so they're not silent, but they have a glottal stop that I can't hear. Think about the word "bike." When you say the word, you release a little tiny breath after the k. This doesn't happen in Korean. Try it again with no air, and you can start to understand the problem with hearing Korean.
-There are three letters that look like and sound like a mixture of b and p. I can't seem to hear the difference, no matter how hard I try.
-My pronunciation will always be wrong. I am always being corrected after thinking I have said something perfectly.
-I understand this issue because, unlike many Americans, Koreans are such a homogeneous society that they are not accustomed to hearing their language with any accent other than their own. I'll learn to deal.
-Hangul, on the other hand, is magic. It is the written language and it is fantastic! It's so easy to learn and makes so much sense. I was able to learn it quickly because of great teachers, and it has opened a whole new world to me. It has helped me immensely in my classroom. I have also gained more sympathy for those in the States who are illiterate, and a better understanding of my students both here and in the States who can read a word just fine, but don't have the foggiest what it means.


General Societal Observations
-"Have you eaten dinner?" is the equivalent of "Are you doing OK?"
-I have yet to see a junky car. There are many junky delivery trucks, but not cars. Probably due to the area I live in.
-Walking paths have random exercise equipment placed here and there along the path. You'll see men and suits and women in heels stopping for a quick chin-up or calf-raise.
-Girls hold hands, boys hold hands, drunk men hold each other, no one seems to mind. I think it's quite sweet that the men don't have to be all macho and scared of each other. People in general seem to walk with their arms touching each other. Very sweet.
-Koreans are not short. They are the tallest of all the Asian people groups. Most of my Korean friends are my height or taller than me. Major misconception.
-Men carry women's purses for them. This is a strange phenomenon.
-Kids go to school 210 days a year. Over twelve years of schooling, this equates to one extra year longer than American kids. No wonder!


More Random Observations: Just wanted to break it up a little.
-Shop-workers greet you, then hover behind you fixing everything you touch. I don't know why they do this, but it makes me feel like I am a nuisance and I end up not buying anything! It's so aggravating!
-Our 9-5 is their 7-ish a.m. - 8-ish p.m. The general rule is get there before the boss, you had better greet the boss, and then stay until the boss leaves. I can't imagine how annoying this must be for the people at home cooking a nice dinner waiting for their spouse!
-I asked for a smoothie once that was half mango, half yuja. I was looked at as though I was crazy! This seemed to be a trend everywhere. I found out that mixed food is seen as lower class. The king ate all his food separated, and this tradition has been subtly carried on.
-You should remove your shoes when you enter a home because the heat comes from the floor. If you wear your shoes, you are walking where people eat and sleep, and this is very rude.
-The answer to every food question: It's good for your health. Koreans are big into healing through diet, which is great, but sometimes a bit excessive. EVERYTHING is labeled "for the well-being life" or the equivalent. I just can't bring myself to believe that a waffle filled with fluffy, sugary stuff is for my health!



Well, there you have it, folks. I have come to the end of my notes! Thank you for indulging me. Now, I am off to find new and exciting topics for your reading pleasure. Annyeong!

9/28/2009

The DMZ

1943 - The U.S., China, and Great Britain forcefully remove Japan from Korea and divide it into two sections along the 38th parallel. The South to be ruled by the US and the North be ruled by the USSR until they were strong enough to be independent.
1949 - At the request of the Korean people, the US withdraws.
1950 - North Korea attacks the south. The US and 15 other countries join forces with South Korea to push back the communistic aggressors. Seoul was recaptured in September, but by October, China joined the fight for North Korea and the war was renewed.
1951 - After the UN and US rejoined the fight, North Korea was pushed back to the 38th parallel. North Korea suggested truce talks.
1953 - The Korean Armistice was signed and the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) was created.

This is the historical backdrop for my trip to the most dangerous place in all of Korea...the DMZ. It is a four-kilometer-wide border between North and South Korea. And since the two countries are still at war, this is the most hostile and heavily-guarded border in the world...

My friend, Tamra, and I were fortunate enough to go on a USO tour with my friends, Joe and Delaine Albert. We began at 6:15 in the morning and had to stop at another base to pick up more people. We weren't permitted on the second base because Tamra and I didn't sign out. Instead, we stood outside and waited in the cold for the bus to return.

After a lengthy journey north, we made it to Camp Boniface and the JSA (Joint Security Area) The JSA used to be an area where North and South armies could move about and interact freely until 1976, when two American officers were brutally axed to death by the KP (North) guards for attempting to trim a tree that was on the southern side of the JSA. One of the men was Captain Boniface. After the incident, the MDL (Military Demarcation Line) was created to keep the two sides absolutely separate.




At Camp Boniface, we were transferred to another bus and taken to a room for a debriefing, to pick up our guest badge, and to sign a form that basically said we understand that we could possibly die. It was a little strange. The officer gave us a quick background of the area, and then told us all the things that we could and could not do. Basically, everything to keep us from getting shot! Just so you know, smiling in these pictures was a very strange feeling.





Next, the military transport took us across the southern border of the DMZ. The first stop was Freedom Hall. This is an American/Korean shared building situated just feet from the MDL. We stood on the steps, listening to the officer tell us that in the two towers just behind him, in North Korea, guards were at this moment taking our pictures. For what purpose, he didn't know. But it would be a good idea not to point. Behind him, and in this picture, was the MDL, the little white strip of cement that separates North from South, Communism from Democracy. And behind that, North Korea. It was so surreal. If you look at the spot halfway between the front and the back of the blue buildings, you can see the small MDL strip.

The building on the left is where he took us next. It was a small room with overtly nothing special. Me and a few other people went to the far side of a large table in the middle to create more room. The officer then told us that those on the far side of the table were currently standing in North Korea. What?! He said it was the only time that would ever happen without us getting shot. We were standing in a room where daily joint meetings are conducted between the North and South. The microphones on the table were recording twenty-four hours a day, so we should watch what we say. We were then told that we had freedom to move about the room, even to take pictures with the guards, but we were strongly advised not to touch them.


Me just realizing that I'm standing in North Korea!













Joe and I nervously standing with one of the guards.
















Tamra trying out for the ROK army.















The table where joint meetings are held. The left is the South and the right is the North. You can see the microphones I mentioned in the middle.




My left foot is in South Korea and my right foot is in the North. How amazing!










After a brief stop for bulgogi, we went to a look out area called OP Dora. It's a point at which we can see 17 kilometers into North Korea. A box was drawn on the ground to limit the area where we were permitted to take pictures. It was a strange concept, but everything is extremely protected here. From the lookout point, after paying the 500 won to use the binoculars, I could see Freedom Village and Propaganda Village at the same time. Freedom Village is where select South Korean families who have a long-standing residence in this area are able to live a farming life in relative safety, and are also able to make a pretty substantial income. Propaganda Village is situated just north of the border and truly lives up to its name. There is a 150 meter tower with the world's largest flag that is so large it has a drag wind of 300 pounds. There are hotels and homes, but they are all hollow. No one lives in them. They are only there to show the South Koreans what a "good life" they would have if they crossed over. Up until a few years ago, there was a loud speaker that would broadcast wonderful things across the border everyday, trying to get Koreans from the south to defect to the north. Currently, 30 KPR troops are there for the sole purpose of raising and lowering the flag.


The final stop on the tour was aptly named the Third Tunnel. This was the third tunnel discovered being dug by the North Korean army south of the MDL and in the direction of Seoul. It is estimated that, had an invasion taken place, 30,000 troops could have passed through in one hour. It was about 1,200 meters in length, two meters high, and two meters wide. The sides of the tunnel were painted black so that the North Koreans could say that they were simply mining, but seeing as there wasn't even a trace of coal or ore in the tunnel, it was not a well-thought-out lie. We were only able to traverse 230 meters or so, but it was still pretty amazing. Again, no pictures allowed.


This was a monument built to symbolize the hopeful reunification of the two Koreas. I have to admit that it wasn't until this point that I even contemplated whether this was something the Korean people wanted. I grew up knowing only the separation, so the thought of bringing them together never occurred to me. I started asking my Korean friends and even my students, and heard the same from all of them, that it's a controversial issue. One person in their 20's told me that the older generation hopes for reunification, and the younger generation does not. Some students want it because they feel bad for the separated families, and some students said they know there will be a civil war and too many people will die. One even said that it's not a good idea because the North is so poor, and the South will become poor trying to build them up.

On Sunday, I went in search for the human side to this issue, and what I saw disturbed me. Currently, millions of families remain separated. Many long for the day where they can bow in respect to their father, or kiss the grandchild they've never met. Many will die before ever getting the chance. Those in the North are so brainwashed that they have no idea what they are missing. If you do a GoogleEarth search, you will see the city of Seoul lit up with life at night, and the city of Pyongyang completely dark. The North is forced to worship a father who is dead (though they are told he was just carried away by cranes) and a son who robs them of their health and their minds. The South is free to worship as they wish. In the North, a man can be shot if it is rumored that he ate an onion from the field he works (I almost said "his own field," but everything belongs to the Dear Leader). I don't know what to feel about this issue, but recently I started teaching English to adults who have escaped from North Korea. One of my students wears a bracelet that sums it all up. It says, "God Loves North Korea." The reunification I hope for is the one between God and His people. He created them, He loves them, and He wants to see them reunited to Himself.

If you want to learn more about this topic, here are a few good videos.
Welcome to North Korea. At about the 30 minute mark, you can see some of the places I visited.
The Real North Korea
Famine In North Korea
Korean Families Reunite
Korean Families Reunite
One more reunion video. Get a kleenex.


What an amazing experience. Though I live in a country that is still officially at war, I feel very safe at every moment of the day. And those from the States that are reading this, I hope you once again remember what a great country you live in! And for those of you with opinions on the current war, maybe the situation here will provide a different perspective.

8/27/2009

Ah...Korea Part 2

Sometimes I look at the amount of time that passes between posts and it makes me a little scared to think of how quickly time is flying by here! I have officially completed one half of my contract. I've been here for six months. All in the same moment, it feels like I've lived here a lifetime but just arrived yesterday. But I digress. Let's continue with the vast abyss of cultural insights that my advanced skills in people-watching have afforded me. (Plus a few more random, unrelated pictures.)

How about one that I just noticed? Holy cow, the greeter at the bank wears a gun! In plain sight! And yes, he's the door greeter, not the security guard. He's the nice man that helped me pay three bills at the automated machine and sat and talked with me about his time in Virginia teaching tae kwon do. No wonder there's no crime here. They know they'll get shot by the greeter!

Confucius Say...
Though Confucianism is not overtly followed today, its centuries of influence have left an indelible mark on Korean society. Some of the remaining mindsets are:
-Women are born the weaker sex. It is the man's job to make them stronger by making their life more difficult. In the ancient past, the men actually assigned tasks as though the women were slaves in order to break their weakness. Interesting how they never thought the women reached the state of strength. The result today: The woman is oppressed for most of her life by the man, but suddenly turns in her later years and takes it out on the man. These couples are very difficult to deal with on the subway! Other remaining results are:
-Women embrace this role and idolize the puny, undefined, muscle-free body, while men should have muscle definition to demonstrate his role as the strong one.
-Me to my class: "Why do you think I always say, 'Ladies first'?" Steve, my second grader, "Because women are weak."
-This antiquated dichotomy of the sexes has also led to extreme double standards as far as behavior is concerned:
-It's perfectly fine for men to be publicly drunk, even for the boss to be drunk with those he is in charge of. It's the job of the newest hire to stay sober in order to take the boss home.
-On the other hand, women are not to be drunk...anywhere...ever. They are thought of as, uh, not very good names, if they do so.
-Men can smoke. Many do.
-Women are not so smoke...ever. I have a friend who smokes but she hides it. One day she was accused of smoking by someone else. Her job was threatened if she ever did it again. The man who threatened her job, her boss, smokes.
-Obedience without understanding. The result: You can never question or go against authority. This leads to situations like Monday being off on the calendar all year, then being told that you no longer have Monday off. You are not allowed to ask why. Deal with it.

The Prese
nce of the Church
According to recent poles, the country is almost equally split between Buddhism and Christianity. This is quite amazing considering the relatively short time this country has had a missionary presence. I would have to say, though, that the Catholic church has a much stronger presence than the Protestant church. The reason for this? I have no idea. But, what I've noticed is:
-The proselytizing amongst some Christians is very in-your-face. It can border on very rude and offensive. One Korean friend told me that her teacher in her private Catholic school told her that she was going to hell. She said to herself in that moment, "I believe Buddha"
-Another Korean friend thinks this is due to the fact that the first missionaries here were works-based. So sometimes maybe the relationship doesn't matter as much as accomplishing the task
-But it's not all bad news. The church here is strong and, for the most part, full of compassion. They reach out to the terrified refugees of North Korea and extend the hand of friendship to Japan, a country guilty of so many wrongs against Korea, in the name of Christ.
-Another of my Korean friend's thoughts on why some Christians here are so zealous is because of North Korea. It is not long ago that they felt the hand of communism, and the refugees here are also painfully acquainted with absolute control, so it's quite understandable that when they experience the freedom of Christ, they want to share it with all they meet.

I realize that this is a rather heavy post, so I leave you with one last cultural observation to lighten the mood. Korean food causes bad breath. Like something has died. This is probably because most of it was already fermenting when it went in! I also just learned that all this fermented food causes cavities faster than sugar!

Stay tuned for Ah...Korea Part 3! Yes, there's more!

7/21/2009

Ah, Korea...Part 1


Though my official title here is "teacher," I have been a student of Korea for five months now. Everywhere I turn, there is something new to learn, a new observation to be made, a new aspect of the culture to be taken in. I have always had a hobby of people-watching, but here, it has become a sport! I've been taking notes here and there whenever something strikes me as, well, notable. Whether it causes a huge smile or causes me to shake my head in disbelief, these are the things that make me say, "Ah, Korea." I've also included a smattering of unrelated pictures for your visual enjoyment.


Transportation
-There are lines on the road, but they are merely a suggestion. They mean nothing. Absolutely nothing.

-Red lights have pretty much the same level of significance. I saw my bus stop for one a couple times, but only for a second. I think maybe the gear shift stuck or something. Red lights are just something pretty to look at.

-Police cars and ambulances have sirens and flashing lights, but I'm not sure why. No one ever moves out of the way for them.

-The sidewalks are made from bricks and are split into two sides; one for walkers and the other for bikes and motorcycles...yes, motorcycles. I've been almost hit by a delivery motorcycle a few times while walking on the sidewalk listening to my music. Oh, and no one ever stays on the side they are supposed to. The two colors are pretty much like the lines on the road.

-I've found that while taking a bus or cab, it's best to just look down a pray.

-Pedestrians have absolutely no rights whatsoever. What your mama told you about looking both ways before crossing the street, do it!

-Koreans drive on the right side, but they walk on the left...no, wait, on the right...no, the left...no, the....GET OUT OF MY WAY!!!

-While on the subject of walking, it's a good idea to never trust the line of trajectory. If you think you can make it around someone because they are veering to the left, just wait, they'll be in your way soon enough. Seriously, it's like they can sense someone is coming up behind them and they step in front of you just at the wrong moment. This happens to me most frequently when shopping and in the subway station.

-Ah, the subway. At certain times of day, there are so many people that I have to wait in line while three trains pass before I make it on there. And there is no "excuse me" in Korea. It wastes too much time. Just push your way through. Ugh, the touching! Click here for a video. Not filmed by me, but it's in Korea, and it's typical.


Fashion
-Anything goes. Any pattern, any stripe, any color, any combination, any time.

-Men here have a great sense of fashion (okay, not all but most) and I've become a huge fan of most of the haircuts. Also, most of the men's clothes are extremely well tailored, and usually a little tighter than we're used to in the States, but most men are skinny, too.

-There are these things called "fish suits" (our name for them, not theirs) which are men's business suits that someone poured a big 'ol bucket of shiny all over. They are most entertaining when worn by old men trying to hold on to their youth. But they're also not so horrible when worn in the right way. They totally wouldn't fly in the States.

-Women wear high heels ALL the time! Seriously, I've seen women walking the track in them, walking their dogs, running. There's even a surgery to scrape down the calf muscles to make their legs look smaller since the muscles are so "big" from heels!

-Image is everything. Mirrors are everywhere. As told to me by a Korean, it is a mirror society, I am what you say I am, therefore, I have to impress you with my looks. This being said, eating disorders are a major problem in Korea. Image is a much bigger issue than it is with us. We would be considered vain if we were "caught" in public checking on our looks; we have to go to the bathroom for that. But here, you are expected to make sure you look good all the time. We even have mirrors in each classroom. And I've seen little kids, four and five years old, checking if everything was in place.

-You must be skinny, you must be skinny, you must be skinny.

-The glasses here are SO cute! Much more variety.

-The necklines on women's clothing are very high and the shirts are very baggy and flowy because of modesty (or so they say), but skirts, which are worn every day, are extremely short. I've also been told that short skirts and high heels do not disappear in winter. I don't know how they do it! But I know why they do it!

-White skin is highly valued. (Woo-hoo, I finally fit in!) There are commercials for skin-whitening creams during every station break, and some women cake on the white powder so thickly that it's almost Halloween-like. There are some of the highest SPF ratings I've ever seen. I went shopping for some today and couldn't find anything lower than SPF 47. And though some wear enormous visors to keep the sun from hitting their faces, I've also seen women (because it's mostly a woman thing) hold up purses, jackets, pieces of mail, their dogs, anything that will keep the sun from turning their faces the same shade that most people in the States would pay for.

-Not surprisingly, plastic surgery is HUGE here. You can even get a discount if you do more than one procedure at a time! It's pretty cheap too. The two main surgeries are noses and eyes, but running close behind (no pun intended) is a surgery to scrape down your knees so you can wear the coveted short skirt.

-The double eyelid is also valued. For us, it just means that when we open our eyes, you can see the crease. This is looked at as a sign of beauty here (my double eyelids are my most common compliment here), and if you can't afford the surgery, you can always buy the eyelid glue. Seriously! Click here to see a video of the craziness.

-While it is sad that Koreans don't value their own beauty and are always looking for ways to be a little more Western, I have to admit that it does feel good to be stopped by complete strangers telling me that my eyes or my brown, curly hair is beautiful. Though I hope I repay more compliments than I am given because Koreans are beautiful, beautiful people.

OK, I'll have to save the rest of my dissertation of Korean culture for the next blog. Upcoming topics are "Confucius Say" and "Religion." Until next time!